This new French researcher talks to El PAIS why the guy thinks the latest Swiss climber’s ascents out-of Shishapangma and you will Annapurna commonly every they look
Inside 1990, Slovenian mountaineer Tomo Cesen stated getting scaled the southern area face away from Lhotse, the newest fourth large hill around the world. It actually was proclaimed the number one feat previously noticed in Himalayan rock climbing, but the guy cautioned which he didn’t come with pictures to prove it. In the future afterwards, but not, the guy offered some pictures – stolen away from fellow climbers that has attempted to overcome this slope age prior to.
In 2015, French researcher Rodolphe Popier been able to tell you one minute lie-by the latest Slovenian: photos removed that have a great telephoto lens of the a friend of Cesen’s just weren’t shot from the feet camp on the south deal with out of Lhotse however, in other places.
Next within the 2017, research of the Popier toward Ueli Steck’s solamente Himalayan climbs of Shishapangma’s Southern area Face and also the Annapurna massif confirmed a suspicion you to the newest Swiss climber got lied from the his very own ascents. Into the a job interview with Este PAIS, Popier covers his look and you may mountaineering’s lax method of thinking-claimed feats.
Climbing pro Rodolphe Popier: ‘I do believe Ueli Steck lied’
Answer: Ahead of. In reality, I found myself only in a position to matter your anywhere between 2015 and 2017, which have a face-to-deal with conference in Kathmandu from the fall regarding 2015, and many as an alternative tense talks for the 2016. Eberhard Jurgalski regarding [mountaineering site] 8000ers commissioned us to perform some Annapurna investigation in the 2016, in you to definitely circumstances, We ran of time and energy to talk to Steck as the all of our matchmaking had currently deteriorated following the the second meeting. and so the report is actually authored in place of interview with your.
Q. The thing that was the brand new result of the jury of your own annual rock climbing prize Piolets d’Or after you presented work with the Steck so you can this new award organizers into the 2017?
An effective. Lindsay Griffin believed that there is certainly not enough incriminating facts to help you question their phrase. Christian Trommsdorff thought his colleague Yannick Graziani, who had doubts about both ascents after learning my knowledge. There can be division among the many committee you to definitely offered Ueli Steck brand new award when you look at the 2014 getting his solamente ascent of Annapurna Southern [undertaken inside the 2013]. Catherine Destivelle and you will Georges Lowe broadcast its second thoughts and you will one another congratulated myself three-years after as i displayed my work.
Q. You suggest that your purpose is not to criminalize Cesen or Steck but to make some considering the have to query to own definitive proof of mountaineers’ factors?
An excellent. Just, that has been the real heart away from could work since i have first started. Actually, in the 2017 I was connected with the fresh new Himalayan Database and you will 8000ers [one or two institutions you to document climbs regarding the Himalayas], and i also has already been collaborating towards French Alpine Pub, together with on Western Alpine Diary. It actually was by then specific if you ask me there try some thing shed in the manner we approached the trouble regarding summit testing otherwise relevant points, and it’s problems you to impacts each other mountaineers and you can institutions. Whenever i demonstrated my documentation when you look at the 2017, a topic was stimulated, nevertheless try extremely unsatisfying to see the period off meditation easily pass away out. Whenever Steck passed away towards the [Everest’s west height] Nuptse a kind of status quo is hit. Catherine Destivelle gotten dying risks hoe gebruik je amateurmatch, I was called all sorts of labels towards the social networking and it absolutely was hinted that we would be to get rid of the brand new Steck instance in the event the I wanted to continue implementing the latest Himalayan Databases. Simultaneously, from inside the 2018 the latest Groupe de- Haute Montagne [coordinator of your own Piolets d’Or] made a slightly inexplicable statement in which it diplomatically overlooked the newest advances off 2017, as soon as we got managed to require honor applicants to add “sufficient files of the passion.”
